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Installation Instructions for ELECTRIC dog FENCE Kits with Posts




The one-wire kit with posts (21-04):

  1. Clip one insulator onto each post at a place or on a day with a temperature of at least 50 degrees F.
  2. Insert the posts about 1 foot into the ground and about 15 feet apart just inside the existing barrier fence, positioning the posts so that your pet will encounter the charged wire if it attempts to dig under or clamber over the barrier fence. In positioning the posts, take any gate opening into consideration (see step 10 below).
  3. Slide each insulator to the height desired on its post.
  4. Starting at one end of the fence (if there is an end) or at any corner if there is not, hang the end of the wire from the post's insulator and wrap the end of the wire several times around the post, securing the wire to the post at the level of the insulator.
  5. Walk down the fence line, unwinding the wire and hanging it from each insulator along the line. Do not expect the wire to run perfectly taut, but take up as much slack as possible without bending or tilting the posts. Maintain this mild tension at corners and at the end by wrapping the wire several times around each corner post and around the end post.
  6. Install your charger, following the instructions included with the unit. If it is AC-powered, place it at the AC outlet nearest the fence. If it is battery-powered, place it at a convenient spot as close as possible to the fence.
  7. Before activating the charger, take your black insulated hookup wire and strip about an inch of insulation off the end. Wrap the bare metal end around the charger's positive (+) terminal and secure it with the knob on the charger. Then string out this insulated wire along the ground until you reach your fence wire. Taking a trowel, place the insulated wire an inch or so underground, leaving enough above ground at the end to reach your fence wire, and cut it at that point. Then remove about an inch of the insulation, and using one of your split-bolt connectors, connect the bare metal end of the hookup wire to the fence wire being charged.
  8. Install your ground rod at a convenient place close to the fence line, using a board between the top of the top of the rod and your hammer so as to avoid damaging the threads at the top of the rod.
  9. As in step 7 above, attach hookup wire to the charger's NEGATIVE (-) terminal; run the wire over to the ground rod; and after removing an inch or so of  insulation attach the hookup wire to the ground rod with the rod's attachment nuts. Should you find yourself short of hookup wire, you can connect the ground rod to the charger's negative terminal with any metal wire. MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO CONNECTION BETWEEN THE GROUNDED SYSTEM (GROUND ROD, GROUND ROD WIRE, AND GROUND TERMINAL) AND THE CHARGED SYSTEM (CHARGED WIRE, HOOKUP WIRE, AND POSITIVE TERMINAL). 
  10. If you need to make an opening in the fence to accommodate a gate, put posts with insulators at each side of the gate. Terminate the incoming wire at the first of these posts, leave the gate opening free of wire, and start running the wire again at the second post. After you have finished hanging the aluminum electric fence wire, take a length of hookup wire sufficient to go down from the charged wire to the ground, cross the gate opening, and connect to the charged wire on the other side. Strip an inch or so of insulation from both ends of the hookup wire, connect the hookup wire to the charged wire on both sides of the gate opening with split-bolt clamps, and bury the hookup wire several inches underground where it crosses the gate opening.
  11. Turn on your fence charger and affirm that the charger's light is lit or blinking. Determine the voltage on the charged wire by placing your fence tester's probe in the ground and applying the metal tip at the top of the tester to the charged wire.You should have two lights lit, although one light lit will probably suffice to shock your pet.
  12. Troubleshooting: In the unlikely event that no lights are lit, detach the charged wire from the charger's positive terminal, place the tester's probe on the charger's ground.(-) terminal and apply the tip of the tester to a metal part of the charger's positive terminal. Then (a) If no lights are lit but the charger's light is lit, there is a problem with the charger or the fence tester, most likely with the tester. (b) If no lights are lit on the tester and the charger's light is not lit either, there is a problem with the charger. Please contact the charger's maker in accord with the charger instructions, or call us at 508-888-8305 for guidance. (c) If one, two, or more of the tester's lights are lit, there is a problem with your fence. Look for bad connections or places that could be draining power to the ground--including grass, other plants, or anything else that is not an insulator touching the charged wire; places where the hookup wire's insulation might have been broken; or places where the ground rod system could be contacting the charged wire. Once any such difficulties have been resolved, re-attach the hookup wire to your charger's positive terminal and confirm with the fence tester that your system is up and running.


The two-wire kit with posts (21-05) for places with dry or hard-frozen ground:

  1. Proceed as above, making the following minor changes: (a) In step 1 clip TWO insulators onto each post; (b) In steps 4 and 5 string TWO SEPARATE runs of wire, being careful to keep these wires far enough apart so that they DO NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER AT ANY POINT. (c) Using hookup wire, connect one of these wires to the charger's positive terminal (as in step 7) and connect the other wire to your ground rod, proceeding as in step 9 to connect the ground rod to the charger's ground (-) terminal. If you need to make an opening for a gate, proceed as in step 10 above, but use TWO lines of hookup wire, one connecting the two charged wires on both sides of the gate, and the other doing the same for the two grounded (uncharged) wires.


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