DEER FENCE INSTALLATION: PREPARATION

Preparation
Do-It-Yourself Installation
Dress and Gear
Professional Instruction and Advice
Clearing the Fence Path
Order of Fence Component Installation

Early Steps: Posts and Fence Setup

Middle Steps: Joins, Adjustments, and Supports

Finishing Touches, Gates, and Maintenance

 

PREPARATION

Do-It-Yourself Installation

Having a barrier deer control fence installed by professional deer fence installers is costly. Therefore, those who do not have deep pockets, or who have workers willing to take on the job, are well advised to consider merely getting professional guidance while doing the job themselves or having it done by their own people.

Professional Advice, Instruction, and Installation

For those who do not wish to go it entirely alone, we provide consultation and installation services. Our customer service desk is of course available to provide information about products and informal guidance on installation during the hours from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. EST, Monday through Friday. Beyond that, we work closely with the Deer DeFence Company and other installation firms that have long experience in this field. Call us at 508-888-8305 for assistance in selecting a firm well-suited to your needs. While most of our installers typically serve southern New England and the northern Middle Atlantic regions, they are willing to travel for customers willing to cover transportation costs. Installers wishing to join our team can start the wheels in motion by going to our Installler Guidelines and Application page.

Dress and Gear

It’s just common sense that people installing a barrier fence for deer control should come prepared for reasonably rough outside work. (One person can do the job, but two-man teams are best). They should wear work gloves, tough shirts with long sleeves, and (if the weather permits) jackets with long sleeves-preferably ones made of leather. The list of tools needed is reasonably short–a string and some small stakes to mark the deer control fence line; tin snips (preferably scissor-nosed) if one is installing metal fence; a brush king, pruner or other clearing equipment if brush or low branches must be cleared, and also for cutting a two-foot swath all the way to the ground; a pry bar (item 15-03PB) to prepare the way for setting metal posts; a post-hole digger, spade, and mattock if holes are to be dug for cement footings; a fenceman’s hammer with a corrugated face that won’t bounce off u-nails; and some optional equipment: a hand-held post driver (item 15-05) for installing metal posts; a gripple tensioner (item 16-04) for tightening cables; a puller/cutter (item 17-08 or 17-13) for use with zip-lock ties; a hog-ringer (item 17-09 or 17-14) for use with hog-ring staples; a crimping tool (item 16-06) if oval metal sleeves are being used; and cement-related equipment if cement footings are being poured.

Clearing the Deer Fence Path

Start by laying out the deer fence line with a string and small stakes. The finished deer control fence should have 6 feet of brush and vegetation cleared on either side of it (except for trees being used to support the fence); so if the fence must run through brush, bushes, or low trees, it pays to do this clearing before the deer fence is installed. Clear the brush with a brush king, pruner, or other equipment down to a height of a foot or so, and cut to the ground anything heavy within a foot of the deer control fence line, so that a mower can go over it. Then mow the ground within a foot on either side of the fence line, so that a two-foot swath is cleared all the way to the ground.

Order of Fence Component Installation

Plan to install the main components of your fence in the following order:

(1) Set the posts (including corner posts, corner braces, end braces, and earth anchors).

(2) Attach the monofilament line that runs along the top of the fencing (needed for all but short runs of polypropylene fencing).

(3) Attach a length of fencing to the monofilament line and supporting posts and trees, section by section, making adjustments for grade changes as needed. Be sure to leave enough fence at the bottom to allow for a six-inch bottom flap.

(4) Secure the fence bottom with ground stakes.

(5) Install gates and attach warning flags.

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