DEER FENCE INSTALLATION: EARLY STEPS 6
Preparation Middle Steps: Anchors, Supports, and Adjustments Finishing Touches, Gates, and Maintenance
EARLY STEPS, CONTINUED An economical alternative to round posts is provided by black-painted steel angle-iron posts (items 15-01 and 15-01B30). These posts have a smaller cross-section than the round posts and are less likely to be heaved up by frost. However, the angle-iron posts are not robust enough to serve as corner posts when the weight of a metal hexagrid fence, falling branches, snow, or deer are likely to create major stress. So in these cases, wood posts or round metal posts should be used on the corners. If you get angle-iron posts you should be prepared to deal with rust by inspecting the posts at least once a year and spraying any rust spots with industrial grade rust-preventive paint (15-081). Like round posts, all of these posts look less natural than wood and do not grip the soil as well–so they are not recommended for use on sharp turns or at sites with loose soil unless they are placed in cement footings. See Video: Installing Angle-iron Posts To install an angle-iron post, simply get on a stepladder and drive the post down with a manual post driver (item 15-05) until seven feet are above ground, testing it periodically from the front and side with a carpenter's level to make sure it goes in straight. If the soil is rocky, use a pry bar (item 15-03PB) as described above in the section on round posts. As with round posts, when you are putting the fence rolls in place, attach the fencing to each angle-iron post with five or six eight-inch heavy-duty zip-lock ties (item 17-04), but in addition pass the zip-tie through one of the holes in the angle-iron post so as to prevent the zip-tie from slipping down the post and allowing the fence to sag. As noted above, the monofilament line at the top of the fence can also be attached to the fencing with zip-lock ties, although this job can be done faster and better with a Stanley hog-ringer and 9/16-inch metal hog-ring staples (item 17-10). See Video: Using Trees as Posts and Installing Wooden Posts
Because they are thicker and stronger than T-posts or metal angle-iron posts, it is often worth using wooden deer fence posts at corners (only if no trees are available) and at places that can be expected to bear major loads. Avoid using untreated wood, because most untreated wood in contact with the soil will rot in a year or two. These posts should be set 3 feet into the ground (4 feet at stress points). Like other posts, they should be spaced 15 feet apart for metal hexagrid fencing, 20 feet apart for polypropylene. The deer fencing should be loosely attached to each post with five or so U-nails (items 17-01 and 17-02). As a general rule, the fencing should be pulled tight enough so that it stands straight and rigid, but no tighter. |

