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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR POLYPROPYLENE
DOG FENCE KITS

 (DG-P-4x100, DG-P-4x200, DG-P-4x330, DG-P-5x100, DG-P-5x200, DG-P-5x330)

 

 

Kit Parts

Parts in the 4 x 100 Foot Kit (19-01DG-P4100): 

  • 4 x 100-foot roll of polypropylene fencing (1 roll, product 14-63A)
  • 6-foot round black posts with flat black vinyl caps, 1-3/8 inch diameter (8 posts, product 15-03J-6FT-1)
  • Brace bands for tops of posts, to anchor fencing (8 bands with nuts, bolts, and washers; product 15-11)
  • Top support wire, black, 110 feet (1 roll, product 16-021-110)
  • 8-inch zip-lock ties for attaching fencing to posts and top support wire (2 bags of 100, product 17-04)
  • 60 kinked galvanized ground stakes 1 foot long (2 bundles of 30, product 18-01)
  • Installation instructions (product INST-DG-P) 

Parts in the 5 x 100 Foot Kit (19-01DG-P5100):

  • Same components as those in kit 19-01DG4100 above, but replacing the 4 x 100 foot fence roll with a 5 x 100 foot  roll (product 14-65A), and replacing the 6--foot posts with 7-foot posts (product 15-03J-7FT-1).

Parts in the 4 x 200 Foot Kit (19-01DG-P4200):

  • 4 x 200-foot roll of polypropylene fencing (1 roll, product 14-63B)
  • 6-foot round black posts with flat black vinyl caps, 1-3/8 inch diameter (16 posts, product 15-03J-6FT-1)
  • Brace bands for tops of 1-3/8 inch posts, to anchor fencing (2 bundles of 8 bands with nuts, bolts, and washers; product 15-11)
  • Top support wire, black, 220 feet (1 roll, product 16-021-220)
  • 8-inch zip-lock ties for attaching fencing to posts and top support wire (3 bags of 100, product 17-04)
  • 90 kinked galvanized ground stakes 1 foot long (3 bundles of 30, product 18-01)
  • Installation instructions (product INST-DG-P)

 

Parts in the 5 x 200 Foot Kit (19-01DG-P5200):

  • Same components as those in kit 19-01DG-P4200 above, but replacing the 4 x 200 foot fence roll with a 5 x 200 foot roll (product 14-65B) and replacing the 6-foot posts with 7-foot posts (product 15-03J-7FT-1).

 

Parts in the 4 x 330 Foot Kit (19-01DG-P4330):

  • 4 x 330-foot roll of polypropylene fencing (1 roll, product 14-63C)
  • 6-foot round black posts with flat black vinyl caps, 1-3/8 inch diameter (26 posts, product 15-03J-6FT-1)
  • Brace bands for tops of 1-3/8 inch posts, to anchor fencing (26 bands with nuts, bolts, and washers; product 15-11-1)
  • Top support wire, black, 350 feet (1 roll, product 16-021-350)
  • 8-inch zip-lock ties for attaching fencing to posts and top support wire (4 bags of 100, product 17-04)
  • 150 kinked galvanized ground stakes 1 foot long (5 bundles of 30, product 18-01)
  • Installation instructions (product INST-DG-P) 

Parts in the 5 x 330 Foot Kit (19-01DG-P5330):  

  • Same components as those in kit 19-01DG-P4330 above, but replacing the 4 x 330 foot fence roll with a 5 x 330 foot roll (product 14-65C), and replacing the 6-foot posts with 7-foot posts (product 15-03J-7FT-1).

Tools Needed:

  • Small wrench
  • Wire cutter
  • Hammer
  • Carpenter’s level
  • Manual post driver or post-hole digger

Installation :

1) Start by laying out the fence line with a string and small stakes. The finished fence should have 6 feet of brush and vegetation cleared on either side of it (except for selected shrubs and trees); so if the fence must run through brush, bushes, or low trees, it pays to do this clearing before the fence is installed. Clear the brush with a brush king, pruner, or other equipment down to a height of a foot or so, and cut to the ground anything heavy within a foot of the fence line, so that a mower can go over it. Then mow the ground within a foot on either side of the fence line, so that a two-foot swath is cleared all the way to the ground.

2) Lay down your round posts (or corner braces if you are using them) at the fence’s corners and then lay down the remainder of your posts at roughly equal distances from one another around the fence. If you have a gate, leave about twice the normal distance plus the width of the gate between the posts where the gate will go, because the gate posts will act as additional support posts.

3) Pound each post 2 feet into the ground with your manual post driver if you have one; or dig holes 2 feet deep, insert the posts, and fill in around them if you are using a post-hole digger. In the latter case, use a carpenter’s level to ensure the post is straight. If using a post driver, determine how deep the post should go by marking the 2-foot point on the post with a piece of tape. Then, as the post is being driven in, use a carpenter’s level to make sure the post goes in straight. When you use the post driver, be sure that any assistant keeps his or her hands out of range, because the descending driver can seriously injure hands.

4) Should you be installing corner and end braces, put the vertical post in a cement footing (see the instructions on page http://www.invisible-deer-fence.com/installation/posts/cement-footings.htm ) and either put the angled side posts in their own cement footings or prevent these angled posts from moving by placing their ends in the ground against cement blocks known in the trade as “dead men”.

5) Put a brace band at the top of each post, with the flanges facing inward toward your dog, and insert the post cap. Pass a carriage bolt through the brace band’s flanges, apply a nut, and tighten the nut with a wrench until the brace band cannot move up or down the post.

6) Next, attach your black tie wire. This wire does not stretch, and it does not need to be applied under high tension. Simply pass one end of the tie wire around one anchor post (a corner post is a good place to start) just under the brace band; wrap the wire around itself a few times to form something that looks like a small hangman's knot; proceed to the other anchor post (two or three posts down the line); pull the wire tight enough to run straight and support the fencing without sagging; cut the wire; and wrap the cut end around the incoming wire several times to form another small hangman's knot. Cut the excess from the end of both the knots you have formed. Now you are finished with this run and ready to start another. Proceed in this way around the fence, stopping your runs at corner and gate posts, so that no run goes around a corner or over a gate opening, until you get back to where you began.

7) Starting about a foot before a corner post of your choice, unroll the polypropylene fencing on the ground just inside the fence line until you come to the next corner, end, or gate. Put something heavy on the fencing to keep if from rolling back up again, and return to the post where you started.

8) Raise one side of the fencing up to the top of the post. Attach the fencing (at a point several inches from the end of the roll) to the brace band's bolt with a zip-lock tie, and then do the same thing at the next post down, arranging things so that the fencing is moderately taut between the two zip-ties, and so that it touches the ground everywhere. If it is helpful, use a couple more zip-ties to attach the fencing to the tie wire at intermediate points between the posts. Now use additional zip-ties to attach the fencing to both posts at roughly 1-foot intervals, proceeding from the top to the bottom of each post and pulling the fencing moderately taut (not drum-tight) when you are applying the zip-ties to the second post. Finally, use zip-ties to fasten the top of the fencing to the tie-wire, applying one zip-tie per foot of fence.

9) Now go one post down and attach the fencing the same way, starting with the brace band; then attaching the fencing to the top wire with a couple of ties if this is helpful; attaching it the post itself at one-foot intervals, and then attaching it to the tie wire at one-foot intervals.

10) Repeat step 9 with each line post until you reach a gate opening, an end, or a corner, or until you come to the end of the fence roll.

11) Gate: When you reach a place where you want to put a gate, proceed across the gate opening with the fencing and continue attaching the fencing to the posts on the other side. After you have finished setting up the fence, open the gate kit and use the gate kit instructions within to install your gate.

12) End: If you reach a place where the fence ends (because it butts up against a building, wall, or other fence, install a post (if you have not already done so) as close to the building, wall, or fence as possible. Then overlap this post with enough fencing to reach the building, wall, or other fence; and attach the fencing, first to the post and then to the building, wall, or other fence, using whatever means seem most appropriate.

13) Corner (a): When you reach a corner, take the fencing a bit beyond the corner in a straight line (do not turn the corner). Attach the fencing to the corner post as above, using zip-lock ties, and several inches past the attachment points cut the fencing off straight with a wire cutter.

14) Corner (b): Start a new run of fencing, unrolling the fencing inside the posts as in steps 7 and 8 above, but then bringing the new fencing to the BACK of the corner post so that it overlaps the corner post by about a foot. Attach it to the corner post with a zip-tie at the top; and, to make sure the new fencing will follow the lay of the land correctly, go to the next post down, pull the fencing moderately tight, and attach the fencing to the brace band of the next post down with a zip-tie (and also to the tie wire running between the posts at a couple of points if this seems helpful). Now go back to the corner post and attach the fencing to the bottom of the post with a zip-tie, preserving the 1-foot overlap.

15) Corner (c): Attach the new run of fencing to the corner post and the next post down with zip-ties at roughly 1-foot intervals, and attach the fencing to the tie wire with zip-lock ties. Then take the 1-foot overlap at the corner post and bend it backward until it touches the old run of fencing. Connect the two runs with zip ties at roughly 1-foot intervals.

16) Grade changes: Should you come to a place along the fence line where the grade changes, place a post at the point with the greatest apparent change, terminate the fencing at that point by cutting it with a wire cutter (after attaching it to the post) and start a new run of fencing that follows the new grade.

Continue as in steps 7 through 16 above until you come back to where you started, joining the last part of the fencing to the outside of the corner post where you started using the techniques described above. Put any gate in place using the installation instructions provided with the gate. Finally, install your ground stakes evenly around the fence bottom.

 

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