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Installation Instructions for ELECTRIC dog FENCE Kits withOUT Posts

 


 

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR KITS WITHOUT POSTS ATTACHING TO BARRIER FENCES

Kits 21-06 and 21-06A (One-wire kits with Insulators for Chain Link Fencing and/or Metal Posts):

  1. Attach one insulator to each post or section of chain-link fencing, using about as many insulators as there are posts. Position the insulators so that when they are connected by a charged wire, the dog will contact the wire. To discourage digging, keep the wire low. To prevent climbing, keep the wire high. Unless you have a fence with bare metal wire (such as chain link fencing), do not place the insulators so high that your dog's feet will be off the ground when he or she touches the wire. 
  2. Starting at one end of the fence (if there is an end) or at any corner if there is not, hang the end of the wire from the insulator and wrap the end of the wire one or more times around the insulator to secure it. Make sure the wire does not touch any metal part of the insulator.
  3. Walk down the fence line, unwinding the wire and hanging it from each insulator along the line. Do not expect the wire to run perfectly taut, but take up as much slack as possible without causing the insulators to tilt. Maintain this mild tension at corners and at the end by wrapping the wire around each insulator before proceeding. When you come to the end of the fence, or get back to where you started, secure the wire to the last insulator.
  4. Install your charger, following the instructions included with the unit. If it is AC-powered, place it at the AC outlet nearest the fence. If it is battery-powered, place it at a convenient spot as close as possible to the fence.
  5. Before activating the charger, take your black insulated hookup wire and strip about an inch of insulation off the end. Wrap the bare metal end around the charger's positive (+) terminal and secure it with the knob on the charger. Then string out this insulated wire along the ground until you reach your fence wire. Taking a trowel, place the insulated wire an inch or so underground, leaving enough above ground at the end to reach your fence wire, and cut it at that point. Then remove about an inch of the insulation, and using one of your split-bolt connectors, connect the bare metal end of the hookup wire to the fence wire being charged.
  6. Install your ground rod at a convenient place close to the fence line, using a board between the top of the rod and your hammer so as to avoid damaging the threads at the top of the rod.
  7. As in step 5 above, attach hookup wire to the charger's NEGATIVE (-) terminal; run the wire over to the ground rod; and after removing an inch or so of  insulation attach the hookup wire to the ground rod with the rod's attachment nuts. Should you find yourself short of hookup wire, you can connect the ground rod to the charger's negative terminal with any metal wire. MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO CONNECTION BETWEEN THE GROUNDED SYSTEM (GROUND ROD, GROUND ROD WIRE, AND GROUND TERMINAL) AND THE CHARGED SYSTEM (CHARGED WIRE, HOOKUP WIRE, AND POSITIVE TERMINAL). 
  8. If you need to make an opening in the fence to accommodate a gate, mount insulators on the posts at both sides of the gate door, or on fencing as close as possible to the gate opening. Terminate the charged wire at one of these insulators and start running it again from the other insulator on the other side of the gate opening.
  9.  After your electric fence wire is mounted on all of your fence except the gate, come back to the gate. Place two insulators on the gate door (one on either side) and run a short run of your metal wire from one of these insulators to the other. Strip about an inch of insulation from the end of your hookup wire. Attach this hookup wire to the charged wire on the HINGE side of the gate with one of the split-bolt clamps. Cut a length of this hookup wire so that you have plenty to reach the wire you have placed on the gate door, leaving enough slack so that when the door is opened your wiring will not be strained or broken. Then strip an inch or so from the other end of this short length of hookup wire and use a split-bolt clamp to attach it to the wire on the gate door.
  10. To carry the charge under the gate, go to one side of the gate, and attach hookup wire to the electric fence wire on that side of the gate. Create a length of hookup wire sufficient to go down from the charged wire to the ground, cross the gate opening, and connect to the charged wire on the other side. Strip an inch or so of insulation from both ends of the hookup wire, connect the hookup wire to the charged wire on both sides of the gate opening with split-bolt clamps, and bury the hookup wire several inches underground where it crosses the gate opening.
  11. Turn on your fence charger and affirm that the charger's light is lit or blinking. Determine the voltage on the charged wire by placing your fence tester's probe in the ground and applying the metal tip at the top of the tester to the charged wire.You should have two lights lit, although one light lit will probably suffice to shock your pet.
  12. Troubleshooting: In the unlikely event that no lights are lit, detach the charged wire from the charger's positive terminal, place the tester's probe on the charger's ground.(-) terminal and apply the tip of the tester to a metal part of the charger's positive terminal. Then (a) If no lights are lit but the charger's light is lit, there is a problem with the charger or the fence tester, most likely with the tester. (b) If no lights are lit on the tester and the charger's light is not lit either, there is a problem with the charger. Please contact the charger's maker in accord with the charger instructions, or call us at 508-888-8305 for guidance. (c) If one, two, or more of the tester's lights are lit, there is a problem with your fence. Look for bad connections or places that could be draining power to the ground--including grass, other plants, or anything else that is not an insulator touching the charged wire; places where the hookup wire's insulation might have been broken; or places where the ground rod system could be contacting the charged wire. Once any such difficulties have been resolved, re-attach the hookup wire to your charger's positive terminal and confirm with the fence tester that your system is up and running.

Kit 21-07 (One-wire Kit with Insulators for Wooden Posts or Wooden Boards):

  1. Proceed as above, attaching your insulators to the fence's wooden posts, or to wooden boards using about as many insulators as there are posts.

Kits 21-08 and 21-08A (Two-wire Kits with Insulators for Chain Link Fencing and/or Metal Posts):

  1. Proceed as with Kits 21-06 and 21-06A above, making the following minor changes: (a) In steps 1-3 attach TWO insulators onto each post or chain link fence section and string TWO SEPARATE runs of wire, being careful to keep these wires far enough apart so that they DO NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER AT ANY POINT. (b) Using hookup wire, connect one of these wires to the charger's positive terminal (as in step 5) and connect the other wire to your ground rod, proceeding as in step 7 to connect the ground rod to the charger's ground (-) terminal. If you need to make an opening for a gate, proceed as in steps 8-10 above, but double up on everything. That is, use four insulators to place two parallel wires on the gate door (comparable to the two wires on the fence); charge one of these wires with hookup wire crossing the hinge side of the gate, and ground the other by connecting it to the grounded (uncharged) wire on the hinge side of the gate. Then run two lines of hookup wire underneath the gate, one connecting the charged wire on both sides of the gate and the other connecting the grounded wire on both sides of the gate. 

Kit 21-09 (Two-wire Kit with Insulators for Wooden Posts or Wooden Boards):

  1. Proceed as with Kits 21-08 and 21-08A above, attaching your insulators to the fence's wooden posts, or to wooden boards using about as many insulators as there are posts.

 

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