ATTACHING McGREGOR DOG FENCING TO POSTS AND TOP SUPPORT LINES
- Attaching the Fencing
- Joining the Fence Sections
- Managing Grade Changes and the Bottom Fold
- Installing Dog Fence Gates
- Fence Maintenance
ATTACHING THE FENCING
Once the tie wire is up and tight, you are ready to attach the fencing. Starting about a foot before a corner post of your choice, unroll the polypropylene or metal hexagrid fencing on the ground just outside the fence line until you come to the next corner, end, or gate, or until you reach the end of the fence roll. Put something heavy on the fencing to keep if from rolling back up again, and return to the post where you started.Raise one side of the fencing to the top of the post. If this is a round fence post with a brace band, attach the fencing (at a point about one foot from the end of the roll) to the brace band's bolt with a zip-lock tie. If it is a U-post or T-post put the zip-tie through a top hole or around a T-post stud. If it is a wood post nail the fencing to a point an inch or so from the top of the post with a 1.25-inch u-nail. If you are using u-nails, hammer each one in about four-fifths of the way, leaving enough room for the fencing to move.
Arrange things so that there is enough extra fencing at the bottom of the post (6 to 18 inches, depending on the fence) to fold inward toward your dog. Then cut the fencing at the bottom to get the bottom fold around the post and use a couple more zip-ties or u-nails to attach the fencing at intermediate points down the post, leaving at least a couple of vertical inches of the fencing extending back before this initial post.
Attach the top of the fencing loosely to the top support wire with two zip-ties between each pair of posts, placing one tie about a third of the way between each set of posts and the other about two-thirds of the way between them. Then add several more zip-ties or u-nails at the first fence post in order to firmly secure the fencing to that post.
Now go to each post in succession, pull the fencing moderately taut (not drum-tight), and apply zip-ties or u-nails to secure the fencing to the posts. Use about 1 zip-tie or U-nail per foot. If you are using round posts with brace bands, have the top zip-tie embrace both the tie wire and top of the fencing, and put it through the bolt in the brace band rather than around the post. As before, arrange things so that there is enough extra fencing material at the bottom all along the fence that can be folded inward toward your dog.
Next, attach the fencing to the top support wire with 8-inch heavy-duty nylon zip-lock ties or hog ring staples, applying one tie or staple per foot. Doing this with nylon zip-lock ties can be quite time-consuming (a hog-ring stapler is much faster), and the nylon zip-ties will need to be replaced about every 5 years. So if you have a long fence it makes sense to invest in a hog-ring stapler and do the job with staples. Do not use stainless steel zip-ties for this task, as they cannot be closed completely and so will not tightly embrace the wire. When you are done, check to ensure that you have enough excess fencing on the ground to make your 6, 12, or 18-inch bottom fold, and also affirm that the wire is not sagging. If it is sagging, tighten the tie wire if necessary until it runs straight by undoing and redoing one of the anchoring "hangman's" knots.
Now that you know exactly how much fencing will be in the bottom fold of this section and exactly where the fencing is going to pass each post in the section, cut the bottom fold of fencing at the post so that you can turn this bottom fold inward (toward your dog) at each post and thereby use the bottom fold to discourage digging.
If you come to a corner where going around the corner does not change the grade of the fence line, and you wish to go around this corner without splitting the fencing into two sections, you can do so. However, it is best to stop at the corner and attach the fencing as described above to every fence post leading up to this corner.